It is a tale about the 88 temples along the way, the political intrigues, secret love affairs between villgers and pilgrims and the stories of despair and pain. Oliver weaves a beautiful web between the past history which he quotes and the present conditions of the modern pilgrims and village people he meets along the way. It is not only a book about Japanese culture accurately and sensitively crafted but the spiritual journey of the author also and his struggle with his inner darkness. Its a great read.

Each temple along the way has a personality and a shadow and the pilgrim connects the stories of the past with his present journey as he interviews the local people and describes their various characteristics. The journey traverses various provinces from Kagawa to Kochi where the various people display unique attitudes towards the pilgrims varying between open hostility to hospitality.

It is a good book to realize the complexity of Japanese culture and to appreciate the beauty of this amazing island of sea, temples and mountains. Oliver is truly an amazing oriental observer with the spirit of zen in each page. He writes honestly, openly and without pretention.

15 of 15 found the following review helpful:


Pilgramage to the heart of things  Apr 25, 2000 By Chris Johnston
Oliver Statler's Japanese Pilgrimage is a delight. Retracing the steps of generations of past pilgrims, he brings their stories to life and evokes a gentle reflective mood for the reader. As well, modern Japan is brought into focus through his appreciation of the links between tradition, Buddhism and Shinto and contemporary culture. A really delightful read, and a good "travellers tale" that will be enjoyed by those who have or are planning to visit Japan.

6 of 6 found the following review helpful:


A Pilgrim's Progress with Shikoku's Saint  Jun 02, 2007 By Crazy Fox
They just don't make books like this anymore! This is a wonderfully rambling, lyrical, impressionistic portrait of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, anecdotal and episodic and yet gradually unfolding according to an underlying narrative plan. It's accessible and simply written and yet well-researched, informative, and highly evocative of Japanese religiosity as it functions in real life. At times it's intensely personal, based as it is on the author's own pilgrimage experiences (mainly a complete walking circuit of the eighty-eight temples accomplished with a friend in 1971), and yet at other times it's intriguingly biographical concerning monks and pilgrims prominent in the pilgrimage's long history. The author's fervent enthusiasm and deep esteem for this religious phenomenon and its underlying spirituality overflows on every page, and yet he's quite realistic and straightforward about some of the shadier and unsavory aspects of the pilgrimage. Finally, the icing on the cake, the book is profusely illustrated with fine woodcuts and paintings both premodern and modern, once again proving the principle that a picture's worth a thousand words.

The book is divided into three sections, and with each section the reader gets closer and closer to lived religion in Japan. In the first part Statler concentrates on outlining the historical personage of Kukai (later known honorifically as Kobo Daishi), the 8th/9th-century monk and founder of the Shingon school of Buddhism in Japan upon whom the pilgrimage is focused. In the second part Statler attempts to portray how layers and layers of legend and belief enlarged and eventually apotheosized Kobo Daishi and of how faith in him as a divine savior was spread among the populace by wandering, itinerant holy men (many pious if unlearned, some inevitably charlatans). Finally, in the third section the pilgrimage itself comes into sharper focus, including discussions with current pilgrims and priests along with accounts of many past pilgrims such as the Kabuki actor Ichikawa Danzo VIII, the feminist writer Takamure Itsue, the Chicago anthropologist Frederick Starr, and the haiku poet Masaoka Shiki, to name only a few. And of course all three sections are permeated with legends, folk stories, anecdotes, and miracle tales that are fantastic or even bizarre--and that capture the mood and feel of the pilgrimage perfectly in all its ambiguity.

Just a word of warning, though, this is not a guidebook. Statler does not describe every single one of the eighty-eight temples*, and for those temples he does describe he skips around a lot and backtracks now and then with no attempt at going along in their order on the pilgrimage route. And there is absolutely no concrete information on travel and accommodations or the like, so don't count on this book for such purposes. Instead, allow this book to get you into the spirit of the pilgrimage, whether you really intend on actually performing it or not, in fact. Indeed, you don't need to know a thing about Japan to follow and enjoy this fine account, and yet those who've studied Japan for years will doubtlessly find much to learn and enjoy as well. And if you happen to have fond memories of life in rural Japan, then believe me, this book will definitely take you back there in spirit.

*(In the back there is an appendix with each temple listed by name and number along with the principal deity and sect affiliation of each, though this is more in the nature of an FYI than a guide per se).


Japanese Pilgrimage  Nov 16, 2011 By Kunoichi
Reading this wonderful book I felt like I was walking not only with Kobo Daishi but with a knowledgeable friend who gave me tons of background information and insights into this famous 1400km-long pilgrimage (henro Jp.) on the island of Shikoku. It was a privilege! I agree with the praise for this book given by other reviewers, and want to mention another book that could be a companion to this one: Making Pilgrimages: Meaning And Practice in Shikoku by Ian Reader. This is an account in the present day, the author's last pilgrimage was in 2000. The book acknowledges the importance of the past's influence on the present, but argues that pilgrimage is not static but a continuing process. For example, he remarks on the recent popularity of organized bus tours. Traditionally pilgrims walked, taking 40-50 days. By contrast bus, taxi or private car takes only 10-12 days. There are many fascinating interviews with his fellow pilgrims, Japanese, who were very open and forthcoming about their motivation, goals, etc. He also calculates the costs of going on the pilgrimage, you might be surprised at what he reveals.

A third book The 1918 Shikoku Pilgrimage of Takamure Itsue: An English translation of Musume Junreiki is a very personal and individual account of the thoughts of a 24 year old Japanese woman. 1918 Japan provides the interesting background for her life and the pilgrimage.

Read all three. How has the pilgrimage changed? How has it remained the same?


This book changed my life  Feb 11, 2010 By marc "henro"
This book changed my life.
Reading it while living in the USA, I was deeply impressed by Statler's history of the Shikoku Pilgrimage framed by his personal experiences of walking the trail. Very readable and fascinating look at a Japan that few people outside or inside Japan know. The book was the starting point of influence for many of us, and decades after its publishing there are many other opportunities to learn about the pilgrimage (for example,see reviews of Ian Reader's Making Pilgrimage book Making Pilgrimages: Meaning And Practice in Shikoku).
None of these books, films, you-tube videos etc come close to capturing the feelings that Statler evokes.

Years after reading the book, during my second stay in Japan I finally had the time to follow in Statler's footsteps. Over twenty years later I still feel the effects of my experiences (note my review 'pen name'!). The pilgrimage brings earth and spirit together as one travels a material mandala planned to raise consciousness.

If you are interested in Japanese history and culture, arts, Buddhism, travelers' tales then I encourage you to search out this book.

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